Thursday, November 24, 2005

WE got Phone number!!

Hullo..we have entered the age of technology that we have stridently avoided at home but here it's kind of a necessity. Sooo, if you all want to call (buy cheap international card), that would be cool. Our dialing info. is this: 011 66 95919437. We'd love to hear from anyone aside from the Thai guys that keep dialing the wrong number and then texting when we hang up on them, sheesh.

Ok, and just to make you all feel better, it's pissing rain here and we're getting soaked on scooters and everything is soggy. But..it was a good day to take Thai cooking lessons. We made 6 Thai dishes ranging from spicy to sweet and sour. We are going to come home and open a restaurant which will undoubtedly fail within 90 days but what's life without risk. That's the plan of the day but by the time we are finished this trip we may be importing iguanas or something else equally as doomed to fail.

We will stay on here for a couple of more days and then move on to Bangkok, that is if we don't get a call for boat sitting or travel to Malysia.

On another subject which I know any of my female readers will sympathize with - I have become a beach blonde, unmanageable, white stringy stuff that will do nothing but hang down unattractively. Not that I'm complaining. We are both brown tho and that is good. Our hotel, while seemingly a good deal, reared it's ugly head this morning with bracingly cold showers. We are moving tomorrow. k - bye.

Wednesday, November 23, 2005

Island Hopping

Yo, ho, ho...Kho Lanta..we have left Phuket after nearly killing ourselves with no sleep! Had a very cool encounter with some Aussies our second last night there. Met some folks in a coffee bar who are refitting their boat in Thailand and they invited us aboard for cocktails so we set out to their marina in the afternoon with huge clouds looming above us and nearly made it but for all hell breaking loose just as we hit the marina village. The skies opened up and we saw the villagers making like gangbusters for cover and sure enough, it was a monsoon rain. Oh well. Eventually we did make it aboard and had a great visit and dinner with them. Lovely boat, 25 metre power boat that they bought in Hong Kong and are styling up with mahogany and leather etc. It will be a dream boat when they are done and have invited us back whenever we are around. Life is good.

Took the ferry over to this island where we are now, very small and quiet and very cheap to stay, approximately $7.50 a night for a bungalow on the beach. We've been zipping about on scooters again ( they are so handy and fun) and tomorrow we go for Thai cooking classes - yummy. When we get home we'll whip up a batch of curry and spicy soup for y'all. Friday we are going diving and snorkelling to one of the gzillion sites around the islands and then we will head for Bangkok for a few days, then to Chang Mai up north country and on to Laos where we think we'll be for Christmas. The high season is supposedly kicking in here but it's really very quiet compared to years past. The tsunami has really put the kibosh on things here for the local businesses and with all reports to the contrary, (read propaganda) it does not appear that there will be a rush for December and January as is the norm.

It's really easy to see how people come to Thailand and get lost. We've seen and met some folks who are into the scene pretty deeply and along with that comes a loosening of morals along with a disillusionment of the paradise life. There are a lot of lost souls haunting the go-go bars and backstreet taverns and it's not unusual to see farangs (us white folks) dead piss drunk at 10 or 11 in the morning anywhere. As well, the cheap and easy love here pulls at a lot of the men but what they don't realize initially is the quandry they put themselves into until it's too late. When you get involved with a Thai girl, you had better make sure that your bank account is topped off and be prepared to feed and house and clothe the extended family, ma, pa, sister, brother, cousin, cousin of cousin etc. There is no free lunch. Speaking of lunch, today Ivan ordered a bowl of soup called JUNGLE CURRY with special Thai ingredients, the main component being hot pepper. I don't often get to see Ivan cry as he's pretty happy go lucky, but today while eating the soup, you would have thought his dog died! Runny nose, weepy eyes and fire engine red face but, damn it was good, or so he says. My eyebrows were singed across the table. I had a cheeseburger.

Thursday, November 17, 2005

Heading to the festival

Works for bananas

Still Hangin'

Our metabolisms have slowed to a stop and between stuffing ourselves on Thai food and grilling on the beach, we are doing little else. Although, like bats, we do come out at night. Ivan has been jamming like crazy with all the local bands. Last Night we were at another biker bar called The Easyrider Bar where they have a smokin' house band. Ivan says the guy on guitar is now one of his favourite players, and he's cute as a button too. He just stands there and plays with a huge grin on his face all night and the bass player is really great too. Tonight we are going back to a place called Scruffy Murphys and Ive will play there with an English dude and a Thai drummer named Goff. The interesting connection here is that when Ivan said he was from Canada, the drummer said he knew a guy who played sax from there who had died. The guy's name was Wayne Diggins who had actually lived in Whitehorse. Amazing. Wayne and Goff were very close here in Thailand, like brothers, and one night Goff got a call from Wayne saying that he had a very bad stomachache, so bad he couldn't play. Wayne then went back to his bungalow and the folks around him could hear him in pain in his room so they called Goff to let him know. He then got quiet and in the morning people around his bungalow didn't hear anything so they went in and he had passed away. Goff had to arrange sending Wayne home and taking care of his affairs here. He is going to give us a photo to take home for Wayne's mother. Very sad. Goff is an amazing drummer, has worked all over the place but now is in Patong for good as he was in the Tsunami and just wants to settle down with his wife. They were in Khao Lak, where thousands of people died; they were driving along the road when the first wave came and rose up to the hood of their car. When the second wave came, it washed right over their car and he had to smash the window out to get himself and his girlfriend - now his wife - out. It was very frightening. We talk to a few people here about their experiences and it is very fresh and difficult for them to talk about so if they want to they can, if not, we don't push.

Sat down to lunch yesterday and a cockroach the size of a Buick came throttling at me full speed! I decided that I was not that hungry and we left. We are tootling around the island on our scooters and sometimes forget that they drive on the other side of the road which makes for good fun as you can well imagine, it doesn't take long to correct your course when the headlights are all pointing straight at you.

Last night was the huge festival here for the full moon and it was very beautiful and romantic. The festival called Loi Krathong is the festival of light. Everyone takes lovely little flower offerings, very fancy little boats with incense and candles on them and money, and floats them out on a little lake in the centre of town, but the coolest thing is the hot air balloon thingies that you buy for about $2.50 and light the bottom of them and they fill with hot air and ascend heavenward at a rapid speed (although some of them flame out and threaten to extinguish tables full of tourists); there are hundreds of them in the air at one time over the ocean and they look like big shiny stars in the sky. There are food stalls and lots of selling and live music and dancing and they even screened a big movie on the beach. Sigh.

I am posting some new pictures today. The elephant comes around the hotels every night at 7pm for bananas and photos. It's touristy but it's fun. It's kind of different to see an elephant walking down the street, a bit of a head turner. In the event that you think that I only have one shirt on this trip, well, you are not far off. I am as sick of wearing it as you will be of looking at it. It's the fashion thing I'm not doing too well with. Healthy, but fashion deprived. Oh well, I know, stop complaining. It is, to say, the very least of my worries.

Friday, November 11, 2005

Phuket putt-putt - Fun.

What gas crisis?

Play Smoke on the Water!!!

A fish called...YUMMY

A new friend

Even the gibbons talk dirty here

He's coming home with me!

Jammin' on Hedonist Row

Hangin' at the Fatboy Saloon

Maraway - My new Thai kitty

Will Play for Sunscreen!

The Underbelly

Life has slowed down considerably from our past 5 weeks and we are swinging into the island life with ease. Ivan, while not gigging (it's hard here cause of the work permit thing) has been jamming at a few bars around Patong and Kata area. It's fun for him to play with the locals and they are all very curious about his playing style and grooves. The night before last we went to hedonist bar district with our dude Simon from Harley bar. He took us to the steamy nightlife street where anything goes. It's all rather shocking initially with young girls gyrating around all the bars and sticking on to the foreign men like velcro, hoping to get a hand permanently implanted in their pockets. Lots of skin and lip licking and smiling and beguiling. Simon took us to a go-go bar where all the men stand around gazing up with glazed eyes and lust at a bevy of Thai girls who show all while dancing seductively above the wolf pack. While it is initially shocking, it is really pathetic after all, and actually rather boring in the end as the faces of the girls are blank and removed from their actions and they all look remarkably like one another and hey, when you've seen one...

The interesting part is watching the Gtoys, as they are called here, or transvestites, enticing all the men to come with them, they are very beautiful and striking (plastic surgery is a huge industry here) but you can tell them apart from the females as they are all rather taller and have distinctly different body shapes than the girls. A lot of the men don't know this though and we watched one guy (most of them are very drunk) being pulled down an alley by two Gtoys with Simon chuckling that he may be getting more than he bargained for. While most of the action takes place on the strip, there are little alleyways that we have been warned not to go down as these are the places you can get ANYTHING and that it can be quite dangerous. We are not tempted.

Going into town today to visit the marina and see what possibilities emerge for a trip down the coast to Malaysia.

Wednesday, November 09, 2005

Laying Back

Thailand - Phuket, sun, sunburned on the first day - duh - beaches, massages, prawns the size of your fist, oysters, fish, Thai spice, lots of old white guys with small Thai girls who they buy things for, transexuals on the corners, all very risque. Yesterday we rented putt-putt scooters and bombed around the island, got lost a couple of times but always with good results. Twice we ended up on top of mountains for amazing views and then we found Lotus Land! Actually, it's a mall with all manner of decadent western treats so we had a coffee, of course, and met some folks who are boating around the world dry-docked in Phuket having their boat fully refitted as it's cheap here. They told us if we want to go to Malaysia to come down to the dock and put up a sign and see if we can share costs on a yacht or other boat. We are going to go for it. They say we can crew or Ivan can play his way but we do want to be careful on this one, as there are some real dicey people travelling about - not to mention the various perversions that abound in this neck of the woods.

We've been hanging about at the local Harley bar called Fatboy Saloon. They had a big ride here last year with thousands of bikes, they showed us the video, it looked amazing. The bar is very quiet now and run by a Brit with a Thai wife and a very cool kitty Marawa. Ivan was going to gig at the bar but it's too slow so Simon (the owner) is going to take us to Patong tonight to some clubs to hook up with some local bands and we shall see what comes of this. There are some very nice Harleys on the island but they are few and far between and with the hairpin turns and steep grades it seems a bit of overkill, but there are some very cool roads to travel and even putting home last night watching the sun go down on the ocean was a blast.

As for the tsunami situation, things have very quickly come back to life. They have rebuilt most of everything that was gone and even improved living conditions for many. Of course there was, and is a land grab scenario but overall things are back to normal and the prices will attest to that. Last year was when it was cheap to come but while some properties are still suffering, it's mostly business as usual. We will probably trip to some of the islands like Ko Phi Phi which was hard hit but back to life and want to also do some real quiet places but for now we are hanging about Phuket and getting De-China'd.

In the daylight all is sweet and nice here but we have been hearing some real grisly stuff about the night. Across from the Harley bar is where they keep the elephants (that tourists ride) where the body of a girl (white) was found trampled to death but they said that her body was abused in ways other than a trampling, so it seems likely she was dumped there. The bars are dicey as well and there have been rapes and murders. If the island could talk. On the corner down from us where you have to slow to make a corner, the he-shes (trannys) hang out and push people off their scoots and rob them. Not to worry, we are safe so far and making friends here and there. Will post photos soon cause we want all you snow bounds to be envious - Ha! Actually, there are days when home seems like a good place to be under the covers and safe. Cheerio.

Monday, November 07, 2005

The Amazing Race

Omygod...We woke up at 6:45am when we should have been up at 5:45am as our flight was leaving at 08:30! You've never seen 2 people dress and pack and get a taxi so fast in your life. Of course we both looked like oil paintings but we actually made the flight. Our taxi driver was really trying to get us to airport on time all the while trying not to go over the speed limit - I'm afraid we stressed him out.

It was a long day and after flying to Bangkok Intn'l we had to take another bus to domestic and then wait 4 hours for a flight and then we got to Phuket and a guy took us to our beach hotel which took us another hour. As we stepped off the plane in Bangkok, we knew for sure we were out of China as the air hits you here like a hot washcloth and the sweat starts immediately but ...I'm not complaining. We are at Kata beach which is nice golden sand beach and a strip very, very busy tiny road with tons of scooters and motorbikes and trucks and taxis and buses going by all day and all night. It's a very touristy area. We will write more later when we know more.

Scam for the day - ok, you all know about time share dudes in Mexico, well here they have travel service dudes. Buddy this a.m. told us if we went for presentation there would be buffet lunch - we bit. He did give us $25.usd tho and we got free taxi to patong beach and we told them at other end "hey, where's lunch"?? whereupon a discussion ensued between managers etc. and they gave us a pardon and sent us home past the elephant carriers which we would have never known where they were without the ride - and, we are $25.00 richer - HA! oh, and I got a free t-shirt.

Oh, one thing I have to mention, in the newspaper it talks about bikers from Canada who are the meth dealers in Thailand - tough dudes - probably not HOG members I wouldn't think! Last night we saw - and heard - the Harleys roaring around town here with cute little Thai gals on the back and this a.m. we went by the biker bars and are going to explore them tonight.

Going to the beach seeya.

Sunday, November 06, 2005

Marble boat at Summer Palace - Really!

Bridge at the Summer Palace

Aww..

Beijing backpacker

Leek day in Beijing

Tomorrow!

Well, now that I have had my new passport surgically attached to my body (they do that cheap in China, not to worry!) I am breathing a sigh of relief, albeit, a polluted sigh. Yesterday there must have been a warm air inversion holding all the smut down in Beijing and it was tough to breathe. Some people here walk around with surgical masks on all the time. Today it was lifted and we noticed that the air is changing very quickly to late fall. Time to leave. We went to a pearl and silk market and spent the last of RMB's which are Yuan but local name is RMB. I bought some lovely table runners and jade chopsticks. None of this of course is necessary, packing tonite will be fun, but when in China...

Last night we had a birthday party here at the hostel for a woman from Minneapolis and Ivan and I went on a scavenger hunt for a bakery, which we eventually did find, and bought the loveliest cake you can imagine for about $6.00 USD or 58 RMB. A bunch of us from the hostel went out for dinner and had hot, spicy food and rice wine and ended up bringing the sweet little waitress home with us to sing and celebrate. A great time was had by all - Ivan and another buddy playing guitar, everyone else with tamborine and egg shakers - until a man came out of his room (Ivan believes sent by his wife) to tell us all to go to bed which we did reluctantly, but, it was time to go to bed.

TOMORROW - we are on the plane to Bangkok and then to Phuket to decompress from China, much needed, I assure you. The tough part for us to do now is to get something reasonable booked for Christmas as masses and droves are still going to Thailand, Tsunami be damned. We will probably shoot for an obscure island in the sun and lay low until after the holidays but all remains to be seen. We will not miss this noisy hostel much but for the people and Roger (the resident dog mooch) and the great folks that we have met here, one of whom we may be travelling with a bit in the future whose name is Cameron from Winnipeg, lovely lad. We will not miss shared showers and the room we are in which I have accused Ivan of smelly sock syndrome but really, it's just the room! The things you don't put up with on the road. Thailand here we come.

Friday, November 04, 2005

Does that come with fries?

And you thought you had a bad office!

Bar-B-que Chinese style

The job that will never be redundant in China

I hope this improves my karma!

Hydrate, hydrate,hydrate.

Ivan's band in Leshan

Big Belly Arhat Buddha - No kidding - Rub for luck.

This is the World's biggest Buddha - 71 metres high

And more Beijing

I have been trying to post pix from this computer but so far no go - so I lied last blog. Will keep trying. As it is, we are just hanging out in Beijing and seeing city sights we did not see previously and also trying to save $ by not getting too extravagant. The evenings we spend walking around in the hutongs which are the thriving, living alleyways where kebabs, peanuts, baked goods and savories along with virtually everything you can imagine is sold in the evenings. People walk hand in hand, families stroll and chat and many discussions are held in low lighted areas where the smell of pubic toilets can shave the hair off your chin by simply passing by.

Funny, or frustration of the day - solicited by an old guy to ride in the back of his pedicab, bicycle type rickshaw - we refused solidly several times until he brought his price down- waaayy down and finally relented. As soon as we climbed in, he lit up a smoke and started nattering away at us about the cheap bastards that we are (we don't know Chinese but I think anybody would get the gist) and not only that, but he was also talking to everyone along the way who would listen about what cheap bastards we were. We just laughed it off and chalked it up to "hey buddy, you were the one who negotiated the price" until we reached our intended destination.

When we got out of the bike, I gave the buddy twice the negotiated amount as I thought he would not be so pissed with us whereupon he started saying that he wanted TEN U.S. Dollars - HUH?? We said no way, he grabbed Ivan (who I thought remained very cool considering the situation) and wouldn't let him go and a melee (mostly me I have to say) ensued. Him yelling at me and me yelling at him and finally we left him the money that I had decided to give him and him yelling at us, of which I have no doubt - "Cheap bastards - white devils, hairy foreigners"!!! Just another day in China.

Thursday, November 03, 2005

Hurry Up and...

WAIT...that's the order of the day. We had to change our plane tickets before the visa office will issue me a visa out of the country so off we go to Thai airlines and couldn't get a flight any sooner than Monday, Nov. 7 to Bangkok but that accomplished - back to visa office. I will have an exit visa Saturday. Whew. This has been consuming all our time and $ this week and it's a lesson learned the hard way. Other than that we've been eating lots of wonton soup and Muslim kebab and noodles and hanging out in our hostel. Mr. Wu, as he promised, delivered all our goodies that we left behind in his care and we are duly impressed with his charity and kindness. If anyone wants to come to Beijing - make sure you get Mr. Wu's no. from us as he makes life easy and is reasonable and fair in his dealings.

Waiting for Monday, waiting for Monday...beach, beach, sun, english speaking pina-colada making, friendly Thai people await. ahhhh. We have booked a funky little beach hotel called Kata Villa in Phuket which comes highly recommended from some Mexican folks who stayed there. Can't wait. Gotta wait.

Posting some new pix today for those of you who log in to have a look at. The next pix will be BEACH.

Tuesday, November 01, 2005

Shanghai'd in Chengdu

... Fell asleep on the bus from the mountain (Emai Shan) to Chengdu and when I got off a bit groggy, the pocket that was velcro'd shut on the bus ride had, apparently, come open. Next thing I know, after getting my bags and hailing a taxi, I check my pocket and MY PASSPORT IS GONE. We checked the bus and all the bags etc. - passport gone. So, instead of the trip we planned up to Shanghai, we end up on a train for 37 HOURS back to Beijing to go to the Canadian Embassy for a replacement. They tell me 3 days and it costs me $150 CAD AGAIN! Do not fall asleep on the bus.

So, we have been in Beijing for 2 days now staying at the Red Lantern Inn. They told me last night that I would have to check out as I am in the country illegally and I'm like, ok, where the hell am I going to go??? We finally got them to relent and are here until I can get a replacement passport and China visa. As soon as this is accomplished, we are leaving China for Thailand. While we really like China, even with all it's attendant problems, it is getting too expensive, in more ways than one, and we just want to hit a beach and relax for a month or so. Stress? Oh ya. But, you just have to roll with the punches. It was a bit of a nightmare in Chengdu with the cops driving us all over the place and then I tried to get a copy of the police report and they wouldn't give me one, just a letter with a stamp, I figured I'd be in a pickle once we got here to Beijing, right I was. The Canadian Embassy told me I should have got a copy of the report whereupon I told them with the language barrier and much pleading to the cops, they still would not give me one. So, the Canadian Embassy has written a letter to the visa office here and hopefully I can get a visa tomorrow too and get the hell out of Dodge asap. So, that's the new scoop. Fun and games in China.

On another note, today we visited the body of Mao in a long snaking line which just kept moving at a clip past the glass encased cadaver. Actually, there are 2 Maos, one is the real body and one is a wax copy and you never know which one you are looking at as they pull the real one every now and then for maintenance. eeeeuuuww. Interesting though. We took our last walk around Tiannenmen Square and then went to STARBUCKS for a coffee and bought some PEANUT BUTTER at an upscale ex-pat market and now we are sated. Tonight we are going for wonton and tomorrow back to the bureaucratic nightmare that they call China. Our cab ride home tonite was during rush hour and the congestion was so thick that we both ended up with screaming headaches. The pollution is not to be believed. We do like Beijing though, as immense as it is. This city is the size of the country of Belgium and growing daily. Here is an interesting fact - China uses 60 percent of the world's cement - I believe it.

Hopefully, the next blog will be from sunny Thailand but we shall see.